The Ultimate Road Trip in French Dordogne
If you found yourself googling ‘Best road trip ideas in France’ look no further! Here is your guide to a memorable 5–7 days of fun in the Southwest of France, more specifically in the Dordogne Valley.
Do you love good food, beautiful nature, medieval châteaux and picturesque villages? Dordogne is a must-visit for you!
Dordogne is a department (now forming the northern part of the Aquitaine région near Bordeaux), named after the river running through it. It corresponds roughly to the old county of Périgord (dating back from the Gauls), divided into 4 areas: Black (noir), White (blanc), Purple (pourpre) and Green (vert).
Here are my highlights and must-see from this trip.
Sarlat-la-Canéda
Sarlat is the beating heart of the Périgord Noir: lots of delicious places to eat, a lovely medieval city center to explore, authentic shops full of artisanal products (from sunhats to local delicacies) and night-time markets several times a week in the summer.
We stayed at an AirBnB in the medieval city center and used Sarlat as a base to explore the nearby villages.
Places to eat recommendations:
- Le Bouchon: perfect for drinks and sharing a platter of cheese and ham.
- L’entrepôtes: lovely salads and a terrace with an olive tree.
- Must-try: local delicacies such as Foie Gras, Magret de canard, truffles and goat cheese. If you stop by a boulangerie, ask for a traditional walnut cake!
- Best ice cream? 8 Rue de la République, Aux Glaces Artisanales.
Domme
Domme is a charming village (on the list of the most beautiful French villages — Les Plus Beaux Villages de France) with breathtaking views on the Dordogne river and surrounding countryside.
Probably the most scenic market in the area, held every Thursday.
Best restaurant: l’Esplanade, worth it just for the panoramic view but the food is amazing too. The terrace is in the shade so perfect to enjoy the sights during a summer lunch. If you prefer a more affordable or casual option, grab a pizza and follow the Espace du Jubilé path to benches with the same stunningly beautiful panorama.
Want to bring back typical wine or liqueur? Head to the food shop Le Cellier du Périgord. I recommend some Quinquinoix (a digestive made from walnuts) and the white wine Tariquet Premières Grives.
Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
There are many castles around the river bends which were built to protect the area from raids.
Castelnaud has a great example of a 12th-century medieval fortress complete with a live demonstration of a trebuchet (medieval warfare machine). A fun day out, catered towards children, if you love medieval architecture. The castle is also the home of the Museum of Medieval Warfare. The collection includes over 250 weapons and armors.
Les Jardins Suspendus de Marqueyssac
These gardens, classed as a National Historic Monument, are built on a spur which overlooks the entire Dordogne valley, absolutely unmissable! Make sure to look for the Belvedere at the eastern edge of the garden, a balcony at 192m high giving you unrivalled views over the village of La Roque-Gageac. From the western-most point, you can see the medieval fortress of Castelnaud.
The Marqueyssac gardens are home to over 150,000 boxwoods (most of which are over 100 years old) with emblematic shapes and over 6km of shaded promenades, perfect for an afternoon stroll.
The grounds are full of treasures and surprises such as sculptures, magical viewpoints, sinuous paths, waterfalls, typical shepherds huts with stone roofs (lauze) and a castle. If you are lucky you may spot the woodcarver demonstrating his skills.
Don’t miss the perfect snack time with crêpes served in a hidden café!
Beynac
Beynac, another member of the Plus Beaux Villages de France family (most beautiful villages of France), has a magnificent very well preserved 12th-century fortress, built on the sheer limestone cliff face. The castle played a crucial role in the Hundred Year War where it was held by the French. Towering above the city, the view from the ramparts is worth every effort once you get to the top!
Restaurant recommendation: Hotel — Restaurant du Château: perfect for dinner. Make sure to ask for a table on the terrace. The owner was lovely and the food delicious. Highly recommend a post-meal walk up the cobbled streets to enjoy the view.
Vitrac to Beynac: also know as the ultimate Kayak Road.
If you love the great outdoors, hire out a canoe or kayak for an unforgettable day out! I recommend selecting the circuit from Vitrac to Beynac (16km) to see all the highlights (La Roque, Castelnaud, Beynac and beautiful cliffs). You can stop at any time along the way to visit the listed villages, bathe and eat. This was a day adventure for us and a definite highlight! Bring your swimsuit and sunscreen. There is a free shuttle service which returns you back to base so no need to arrange your return.
La Roque Gageac
One of the stops I would highly recommend on the ‘Kayak Road’ is La Roque Gageac, another picture-perfect village frozen in time.
You can visit the troglodyte fort, which was an important and impregnable stronghold during the Hundred Years War. It involves a steep 40m climb up a narrow stairway, with some historical steps carved from the limestone cliff. The views are simply amazing (can’t get tired of saying it!).
While wandering along the historic streets, you may also find the hidden tropical garden with palm and fig trees.
Rocamadour
Well, technically we are now leaving the Dordogne region for the Lot, but Rocamadour is worth this little detour. The village is best known for its goat-milk cheese production and as a historical Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which has attracted pilgrims for centuries. The relics of Saint Amadour are still held in the crypt.
If you want to sample or purchase local specialty, such as Foie Gras, head to La Maison L’Occitane (rue Roland Le Preux): they have excellent products from local farmers and producers and great offers for multi-buy deals.
Foie Gras is typically made with duck liver but if you want to taste something new and equally delicious try one made from geese (oie). Make sure to select it whole (entier) as opposed to ‘bloc’ to ensure quality, optimum taste and texture.
La Borie d’Imbert
The Borie d’Imbert is a small working farm on the way to Rocamadour where you can meet adorable baby goats, witness the milking and have a picnic. The farm shop sells amazing goat-milk cheese (produced locally at the farm), bread and saucisson: all you need for the ultimate picnic (picnic basket provided). The perfect stop for lunch. Don’t forget to get fig chutney: it’s the perfect complement for Rocamadour cheese.
Stock up on their homemade pâté, conserves with goat stew and goat-milk soap: a real treat and perfect gift!
Limeuil
By now you know the drill: chances are you will stumble upon yet another charming and picturesque village if you are exploring the area. Limeuil is one of them! If you want to bathe at the confluence between two rivers the Dordogne and the Vézère, get to Limeuil beach!
Limeuil is full of art galleries, so why not go home with some artwork to remember your trip by? There is also a glassblower workshop making the cutest glass aubergines and pumpkins (rue de la poste).
Cave exploring
Les Grottes de Lascaux (Lascaux Caves) are probably the most famous caves in the area and the best-known example of surviving prehistorical art. We did not make it there but I recommend that you book well in advance as it gets very busy.
If you want a cave experience, why not try speleology? We had an unforgettable time exploring an underground river shaped over centuries in the Perte de Rignac with the Company Sports Nature. You will see amazing formations and get to swim in an underground river.
I hope this inspires your future travels! Leave a comment below if you have another must-see highlight in the area.
